Written on 2/2/2011
Hmm, I know it's hard or maybe even painful for some of you to imagine
90 degree weather, and 80 degree water, but that's what I'm "enduring"
everyday ;) No, actually I'm loving the warmth.
So yesterday, I went out surfing for the very first time. Wow, what a
rush. I mean literally. Fast waves coming at you and then throwing you
onto the shoreline if you are not careful. Not to mention the rush of
salt water that went in every orifice of my head. Now my mom always
taught me to gargle with salt water when I wasn't feeling well, but I
don't think this is what she had in mind. I wasn't feeling to well but
I decided to join in on the exhausting adventure anyway. I've been
fighting a cold but I thought, nah I'm going to be "that tough girl"
that just defeats those waves anyway.
Well, lets just say I got thrown around a bit. Don't get me wrong, it was an absolute blast, and I will be going again, but I just need a few days of recovery. It was a bit like trying to surf in a washing machine. I think I swallowed enough salt water to fill a small saline pool. I started to feel a little nauseous after about 45 minutes in the rinse cycle and took a small break on shore. Well, about 10 minutes into my break, I felt a wave of nausea and lo and behold I started vomiting all over the shore.
Yeah, real classic. Cute and hard core, for sure.
I learned a few lessons though, both for surfing and for life... you know me, always looking for those lessons- for the bigger picture behind it all.
#1 If you don't risk getting away from the safety of the shore, you
will be repeatedly knocked down and weakened by the white water before
you ever get the chance to truly enjoy the ride...
#2 Paddle hard and fast, keep your eye on the wave lest it knock you
down by surprise, study each one carefully, and don't let the best one
pass you by. Catching the right wave at the right time is an art form
in itself. Once you catch it, your focus changes from "looking ahead"
to being wise and quick on your feet in the moment. You have to be
fully present, connected and dependent on that board until the ride
#3 Wear the leash that goes around your ankle!!! It is your only
assurance to stay connected to your board when you get thrown off time
and time again. Ps. You WILL get thrown off... many many times, especially when you are first learning. Don't sweat it, and DON"T GIVE UP! The best thing you can do when you get knocked off your board is to jump right back on, cling tightly, catch your breath if you must, and then head hard out for those waves again.
Note to self... All that God has allowed mankind to enjoy (including
surfing) has the power and the purpose to be used for teaching,
training, and learning how to love him deeper and to live this life
with intention and adventure. Heck, He captured my heart with a skittle! More to come concerning that story... guess you will just have to keep on reading ;)
Be Blessed today and pay attention to those lessons happening around you...
Share some if you'd like!